tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-70115494759079099402023-11-16T10:35:12.004-08:00The Falcon's PhoenixThis is a blog about restoring a Mutoh Falcon Outdoor 48, aka Rockhopper 48.Chris Purolahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10889576164712613561noreply@blogger.comBlogger13125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7011549475907909940.post-76055354331617764162015-07-22T20:00:00.000-07:002015-07-22T20:00:14.731-07:00Final Update...This will most likely be the last post on this blog mainly due to the fact that I've sold this printer and no longer do vinyl printing.<div>
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I spent a lot of time and money getting this machine up and running, but also keeping it operational, as I'm sure anyone else who owns a machine like this knows well! In the end, I just didn't have enough print jobs or patience to keep this thing operating at it's peak, and between the difficulty in finding (reasonably priced) heads and keeping the ink from hardening up in the machine, I just decided it wasn't worth it and put it up for sale.</div>
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A local who ironically had read this blog about repairing one had picked it up from me, and I hope he's doing well with it, or that he at least got some use out of it, wherever it is.</div>
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With how these machines are getting up there in age and being that parts are getting more difficult to find, I imagine this blog will get less and less views, but for anyone who has questions about this machine, feel free to email me and I'll get back with you as soon as I can. I may not be able to answer all your questions, but I'll do my best.</div>
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If I had to do it all again, I'd shell out the extra $$ for a newer machine with some cheaper, or at least, more common, heads and a better-designed ink system (I believe I stated somewhere else here that this was Mutoh's first shot at a solvent printer) so that there's a lot less hassle with keeping it running.</div>
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Thanks for all of you who've read this blog, and let me know if I can help!</div>
Chris Purolahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10889576164712613561noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7011549475907909940.post-20658423777403192842012-02-20T11:17:00.004-08:002012-02-20T11:17:54.895-08:00Current Status..So I know it's been awhile since I posted here, and that's because I've been busy busy busy! The printer has been working great so far, and with the tweaks I've been doing here and there, it's really working well.<br />
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My current issues are:<br />
<ul>
<li>Black nozzle deflections - These are pretty bad. I'm going to try a head soak to fix it.</li>
<li>Color profile - I have a GretagMacbeth i1 Spectrophotometer on the way so that I can build my own profile in Flexi. This should help immensely for the color issues I'm having.</li>
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I've had a bunch of trial-and-error type problems happen, and so I'm going to try and document as much of it as I can on the wiki that I've started, <a href="http://www.chorca.com/wiki/" target="_blank">Mutoh Wiki</a>. I will most likely change this URL at some point, when I get a domain for it, but for now it just redirects to my local server.<br />
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I've got a lot of info on there so far about calibration. This is a big thing since the manuals which are circulating around are not that good at explaining the calibrations. The one I have actually conflicts with itself on several occasions throughout.<br />
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Some happenings which are of relevance:<br />
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After getting everything aligned, I noticed that I was still having problems getting ink to stay in the Light Magenta damper. I decided that either the o-ring or the damper was causing issues, so I ordered a new damper off eBay (to see what those were like) and then installed the o-ring upside-down, to switch up the contacting surfaces in case they had become worn. This solved the issue, and I found that the big difference between the ones I bought from CMYKparts.com and the ebay models is that the ones from eBay seem to have larger threads or ones that were not cut as well as the ones from CMYKParts. They are harder to thread the brass nut onto, however, mine did work. I never used tools, but did have to go at it with my finger to make things fit right. Ink is now staying in the new damper and I'm able to use both my light colors properly.<br />
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The new silicone wiper is very easy to keep clean, just a quick swipe of a cloth over the wiper and it's clean. Helpful for keeping that gunk out of the print head; I clean it every time it uses the wiper. Really easy to do and gives me some peace of mind.<br />
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My black test prints have gone way downhill, and I'm not really sure about the source of the nozzle deflection on the black head. It seems to have adequate ink flow, and the test prints show all nozzles are present, just not printing straight. I'm curious if a head soak would fix the issue, so I'm getting some coffee filters in today to test this theory.<br />
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Our contour cutting has been going great as well! I have a crappy old Roland ColorCAMM PC-60 which does not have any sort of features for aligning registration marks for cutting. I could get a small 24" Graphtec for about $1200 locally which has that feature, but I'd rather save that money and spend it on something wider so that I can print out full sheets without wasting the space we are now.<br />
For now, we've been printing our own registration marks on the corner of each thing to be cut, and then manually aligning them laterally on the cutter, using the blade as the reference point. Then, we just set the origin to that point, and can cut multiple rows of objects at once. It's not perfect, but it'll get us by until we can afford something better.<br />
On a side note, if anyone has a 48" or wider cutter they'd be willing to
sell for cheap.. I'm interested. Must have optical registration sensor.<br />
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My apologies for the lack of photos on this post. I'm planning on a whole full-photo write up for the calibration procedures on the wiki, which should make this stuff a LOT easier, so that you can see what the machine will actually spit out for each menu item, and then know exactly how to move the numbers in the calibration menu.<br />
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Oh, one other thing, and this is the type of stuff I'd like to include on the wiki.<br />
I noticed last night while I was trying to find the source of a large amount of ink splatter on the inside wall of the printer, that the side of the right print head was absolutely covered in ink. I could not figure out why. I cleaned it all off and wiped up the ink on the wall, and then started checking around. i found that ink had begun to deposit itself near the spit cup, and that even though I'd aligned the flush points to the cup, I couldn't figure out why it wasn't working right. After a bit more playing around, I learned two things:<br />
<ol>
<li>The spit cup sponge is not supposed to sit far down inside and be gripped by the plastic protrusions on the inside walls. Those are meant to <b>hold</b> the sponge up above the bottom of the cup, to get it closer to the nozzle so that the splashes of ink are contained within the sponge, instead of splashing back against the head.</li>
<li>The calibration names are not conducive to their adjustments, at least, they aren't what some people may think. Left flushpoint and Right flushpoint are not left and right bounds of the flush point, they are left and right <b>head</b> flush points. Meaning, you adjust the flush point for each head individually. This info will be added to the wiki.</li>
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After doing this and cleaning up the area around the spit cup, and running off a bunch of pictures, they are coming out great now. Also, the area near the cup is clean, and the head seems to be staying dry as well, though I will keep an eye on this part to see if there is something else I need to fix.<br />
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I'll try and get some photos up of the output and the fixes I've done so far shortly. Most likely will get them taken during the work we do today.Chris Purolahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10889576164712613561noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7011549475907909940.post-49020783549338663332012-02-04T14:11:00.000-08:002012-02-04T14:20:50.342-08:00Printing!Alright, so I finally got the machine working. My friend was over helping, and we got a lot done, so there's not going to be many in-progress pictures here.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgneSPuGYiOsCtY4UG7YR7axRt1lueEnZYqOq0xZGm1GHojF2Xv4MxfRvYc1Z2303vzx0CU51tESGfvgPlu2MYm4UcGhl3P6Jh5U4ptwpXb6zIvawJGAHogkCMD7cHCp4DTH0kKlM-KS3JB/s1600/DSC_5953.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgneSPuGYiOsCtY4UG7YR7axRt1lueEnZYqOq0xZGm1GHojF2Xv4MxfRvYc1Z2303vzx0CU51tESGfvgPlu2MYm4UcGhl3P6Jh5U4ptwpXb6zIvawJGAHogkCMD7cHCp4DTH0kKlM-KS3JB/s320/DSC_5953.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
I fixed the spit cup being broken by using a piece of metal from a computer case, bending it at a 90-degree angle, and mounting it against the plastic piece behind the spit cup, and the spit cup to it, using <a href="http://www.3m.com/product/information/VHB-Acrylic-Foam-Tape.html" target="_blank">3M VHB Foam tape</a>. Really sticky stuff, and I made sure to clean the heck out of all surfaces with 91% alcohol before applying the tape, to make sure it would adhere well. It's been holding just fine so far!<br />
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I should add that a large reason that the insides of the machine were coated with ink, that the control panel cable was damaged and the spit cup holder was broken was due to a simple calibration error. The spit cup's position is determined by two limits, specified in the diagnostic menu under "FlushPoint".<br />
You simply hold a piece of paper over the spit cup (or halfway over it, so you can compare the marks easier), have it run a test, and then adjust the left/right limits accordingly. A 3-minute fix would have prevented a lot of work, and it was clear that's where the issue was, as the lip of the cup was wet, indicating ink was not spraying in the right location.<br />
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Getting back to reassembly. To start with, we began by getting the rear ink holders reassembled and set back into place. Next, we flushed the lines once more, as in the previous article, since they'd been sitting around for a week or so with solvent in them. Naturally, that was going to break more ink loose, and it did. We just did a quick flush until the line ran clear, then pulled the tank out of the cartridge holder and used the syringe at the head to pull the cleaning fluid out of the line. That way, the initial fill of ink wouldn't be diluted.<br />
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With all the ink lines cleaned out and empty, we began the process of installing the print heads. The cables are arranged in a certain way, which are usually clear if you have removed them. The cable going to the right-hand head (when viewing the print head from the front of the printer) is installed first, routed UNDER the head height adjustment bar, then carefully inserted into the slots (both on the top board and on the side of the head. The bends in the cables should help make it clear which way the cables should be inserted into the head and top board. The right-hand head goes into the slot in the top board closer to the front of the printer. The left is installed after the right, cable routed over the top of the other cable, and plugged into the upper slot on the top board. The heads should be inserted very carefully as to not scratch the head surface on the metal carriage.<br />
After seating the head into the slot, install the spring with tweezers, and fasten the washer and screw into the head to keep it in place. You will need to loosen this later during calibration, so no need to crank on it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1hApCS0r1ALUIkFi6hoPrCUd6saEgRjOjAH-Bjle9OMFU9hCUg7hqJt5KJ8AJ-5FvncUWQOivXlQcmxoQ7OjXoPvuL2BrYZZT_8S7Dr87EbINKtNGyTZYD6RBrFKlgG-nlxkOeGQgPajg/s1600/DSC_5948.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1hApCS0r1ALUIkFi6hoPrCUd6saEgRjOjAH-Bjle9OMFU9hCUg7hqJt5KJ8AJ-5FvncUWQOivXlQcmxoQ7OjXoPvuL2BrYZZT_8S7Dr87EbINKtNGyTZYD6RBrFKlgG-nlxkOeGQgPajg/s320/DSC_5948.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Next, we began installing the inks. We opened each cartridge's outer bag and installed it into the slots one at a time. After installing the ink tank, we then installed the brass nut, and the o-ring onto the corresponding hard line (it's a lot easier if you cut off the zip-tie holding the metal lines down to the head), and slid the damper onto the line. Then, lower the brass nut down onto the damper, and carefully (to make sure you don't cross-thread the damper) tighten down the nut onto the damper. We then took the empty syringe, inserted the adapter (just an angle-cut rigid plastic line on ours) into the bottom of the damper (carefully as to not unseat the o-ring), until it made good contact. Then we gently pulled on the syringe to began sucking the ink into the line. After about 10 seconds of suction, and seeing the ink flow through the line, it will begin flowing into the damper and through into the syringe. Pulling the hose quickly out of the damper after the ink begins to flow seemed to help the ink fill the damper.<br />
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Then, plug the damper gently into the corresponding peg on the head, while seating the front groove of the damper into the slot on the head carriage.<br />
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After filling all inks and installing the dampers in this way (we needed to tilt the light magenta damper backwards to help get it to fill properly, then tilt it back down and install it), the next step is to do a manual fill through the pump. The reason is that since the peristaltic pump does not have any fluid in it, and they are horrible at pumping air, they will not be able to achieve the suction required to pull ink through the head.<br />
What we did is using the same adapter, unplug the rigid line going to the ink tank from each of the hoses, and attach one of them to the syringe. Then, after sliding the head all the way over to the home position, making sure that the rubber had a good seal, we pulled on the syringe. The after a few short seconds, the ink began to come through the line into the syringe, which is plenty. Then, we disconnected the line from the syringe and reconnected it to the drain line. After repeating for the other line, we were ready to power the system up.<br />
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The cable routing is a bit of a challenge, and I'll address it later, since I still need to redo the routing. <br />
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Now that the lines and heads have been filled, you can go through the initialization procedure and fill the heads, and then work through the calibration.<br />
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The hard part of calibration is adjusting the heads in the carriage. The two big things that need to be adjusted are the rotation of the head, and the shift forward-back relative to the other head. These will take a bunch of time and make you frustrated. <br />
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Here's a top-down view of the heads so you can see the adjustments. The two round adjusters in the front are to adjust the rotation of the head behind it, and the small adjuster on the side is to adjust the right print head's (viewed from the front) front-to-back movement.<br />
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To do these adjustments, you need to loosen the screw holding the head in, adjust it, and then tighten it back up. The frustrating part is once you adjust the rotation, then try to adjust the front-to-back, inevitably, you will mess up the rotation again. it takes time, printing, and patience to get this right. After messing with it for an hour (for the second time) it's mostly aligned, though the left head still has a slight rotation to it.<br />
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The loupe helps tremendously, you can see each dot and where it's placed. Helps a lot for the bi-directional printing.<br />
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I've also started a Wiki called <a href="http://www.chorca.com/wiki" target="_blank">Mutoh Info</a>. It's hopefully going to be some sort of repository for all the Mutoh information that shows up on the forums and other places, somewhere for information on how to work on these things and how to troubleshoot as well. At the very least, I'll dump everything I know there, and it'll be a little easier than looking through these blogs.<br />
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More to come soon! I'm going to get some more pictures up and hopefully we will have this thing doing some nice prints soon!<br />
<br />Chris Purolahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10889576164712613561noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7011549475907909940.post-50774706196446784922012-01-25T00:05:00.000-08:002012-01-25T00:05:56.655-08:00Some ReassemblySo firstly I need to apologize for the lack of photos here. When you have a friend over spending their time on helping you out, the last thing you wanna do is stop to take really detailed photos of everything because, well, it's their time too. So, I went through afterwards and tried to do my best to take good pictures of what we did.<br />
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So, to start where I left off on the other post, we reassembled the ink pump and capping station onto the frame. It's really easy, and it truly is the reverse of disassembly, everything just pops back into place and screws together.<br />
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My friend cleaned out the head area and really got it sparkling! You can see just how it came out!<br />
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Here's a closer picture of the pump/capping station, mounted up and attached to the frame.<br />
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Something else important is how the ink lines work with this replacement pump. The original lines had about 3 different types of hose and multiple (more than 3) connectors along the way. This new pump lets me simplify a lot. Mainly because the drain hoses coming from the unit are really long!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinBFvSVb9SjecY_HZq2QV1eZZSWNI3W5pS8lNY2m5FLNVcfPwRhaqdibJ-yhG2yXHsUpmZVsrfycIm-J8QPVxFPFEL-_gk6WORUnwXcyF54UMAZOEEhz3zhTIaLdjneAkkw5v_PDEVcVgr/s1600/DSC_5667.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a>We cleaned out the thin tubing running to the ink tank and then I attached the hoses right into the silicone tubing, no connectors needed. These then feed directly into the waste ink tank. Here's how the hoses on my machine are currently routed. (I may need to change this, but not sure.)<br />
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Here's a shot of how my external lines are run. I may need to modify the large drain line, but the others should be alright. I know the holders are slotted to let you slip the line in and out, but they just destroy the hard plastic. If your lines are hard plastic, just pull them out of the waste tank and through the holes.<br />
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The spit cup has been cleaned out, and the important part: the drain line has been cleaned out as well. My friend spent a good 15 minutes squeezing huge long globs of solid ink out of the line. It looks like the large ink spill occurred due to an overflowing spit cup. There was at *least* 8 inches of solid ink in the line when we cleaned it. It's now clear, and hopefully will be routed in a fashion that promotes drainage. (once we figure out a way to attach it. The cup is still broken)<br />
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So, I went to install my new bulk cartridge into the printer, and found that it didn't go in! Well, I compared it to the cartridges that came with it, and found that the two little nibs on the top of the cartridge were to blame.<br />
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To properly install the cartridge into a Falcon 1, you have to cut off the nib shown on the left. The nib to the right stays.<br />
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The technique I used to clean the lines was the easiest that would (hopefully) get the job done. It involved filling my bulk ink tank with the cleaning solution that I made up, and then using the syringe I bought to draw the solvent through the lines, hopefully pulling all the old/dried/precipitated ink out of the lines and into my syringe, which I would then empty into the jar you see in the upper right.<br />
In order to do this, I left the tip on the syringe hose, and slid it up onto the metal pipe, then pulled steadily and slowly on the syringe, to draw the solvent into the line. After about 20 seconds of vacuum on the line, solvent would pour through. It would take a couple syringefulls to get the solvent running clear.<br />
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You can see the lines on top are showing signs of being cleaned by the solvent.<br />
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It seems that some of the solvent drains back into the tank when the lines are disconnected from the syringe, or when there is not a constant vacuum pulling the ink into the lines. I'm curious if this will be the case when I attempt to print, or if the ink pump will take care of this. I'm not sure how much of a difference there is. Perhaps the dampers will help by providing a small reservoir of ink near the head, or a check valve.<br />
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I wanted to show a little more about some of the electronics inside the black box at the bottom. They look intimidating, but they really aren't that bad. Here we have the ink pump connector for the wires from the ink pump stepper motor. They go into the slot marked "INK PUMP" and it uses the same type of connector I showed previously on the control panel, the pull/push ZIF connector. Be gentle with it. The blue band on the wire and the small white arrow near the bottom of the connector indicate pin 1. Align these two when you are inserting the cable.<br />
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Here is the heater control connector, the large socket at the top. It is not a ZIF, so you will need to push the cable in as you did on the other side of the heater controller (shown in a previous post). Be careful, and make sure you match the silver side of the cable with the side containing the pins (also showed how to tell in a previous post).<br />
The large black components with "CRYDOM" on them are solid state relays, which allow the unit to turn the 110VAC heater strips on and off to keep the temps up.<br />
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This is the socket for the control board. It is also a non-ZIF socket, so you'll need to carefully push the cable into the holder. It's the opposite direction from the heater cable, so make sure you pay attention to which side the pins are on!<br />
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Looks like someone at the factory forgot to pull the sticker off of the beeper after they washed the flux off!<br />
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Here's the head as it is currently. The O-rings and nuts have been removed, and the lines cleaned. I have let solvent rest in the lines to try and get it to break down more of the solidified ink, Magenta was the hardest to clean of all of them. It had grown quite thick and required a long time with constant suction to finally pull the solvent through. It's cleaned now though, and with the slow-drying properties of the solvent, leaving it in the lines should be good, even if it drains back.<br />
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I'm pretty forgetful, and in my excitement and rush to get this thing back together, I forgot about inks. Now, while the printer came with some, and they're somewhat full, they are over three years old. I'm not going to take the chance of messing up all the brand new stuff in here with some old ink, so I need to get some new ink. This was somewhat of a disappointment, as I had hoped I would get to start calibration and testing today, but alas, I'll need to wait for a bit so I can afford a new set of inks. Hopefully I'll pick them up the end of this month.<br />
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My plans are to run a bit more cleaning solution through each of the lines before installing the new inks, to clear anything else freed in the lines during the week-long soak. Then, I'll install the dampers and heads, and begin pulling inks through them. I'm investigating using only 4-color printing to save a bit, as I'll be buying the genuine inks. Lots of questions about it on the forums, but no real 'how-to' style answers. I'll figure this one out and get something definitive put up about it.<br />
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For now, things are gonna go quiet for around a week while I relax and make money to pay for the rest of this.<br />
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Feel free to comment if you find this helpful or would like more info! I love feedback!Chris Purolahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10889576164712613561noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7011549475907909940.post-43234311103936550212012-01-23T07:43:00.000-08:002012-01-23T07:46:02.325-08:00CMYKParts orderWell, the <a href="http://cmykparts.com/">CMYKParts.com</a> order just showed up, so here's my unboxing, to show everyone what you're getting when you buy the refurb kit.<br />
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Here's the box! (French on the box, it ships from Quebec)<br />
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Here's what's inside. Well-packaged, packed in peanuts, all the delicate parts wrapped in bubblewrap.<br />
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After getting rid of all the peanuts, the goods.<br />
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And finally, here's the parts themselves (of the refurb kit) after unpacking. I opened one of the heads, and they are packed in a pretty cool container, suspending the head in the middle of the box.<br />
Head rank numbers are both printed on the box with a label, as well as written on the sides of the head in sharpie.<br />
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Here's a close-up of the new capping station. There are some differences here, mainly the larger rubber gasket around each pad, and the metal grate inside to prevent swollen pads from pressing against the nozzles and siphoning all the ink from the tanks. (A most terrible occurrence I've heard from the signs101 forums)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWSFbotkUAA3Cp-6I30dmH4lvktPTK8DtBwRwcRD22ItJez7x14G9Lrh9ngWI1vy_AznAH3OKqWD_LRsQUrhExgOKOb4P_nGGlki-o-jcpjJS73Q294_-pVmTyGW45Fi3qk1SG6oAx7XfM/s1600/DSC_5617.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWSFbotkUAA3Cp-6I30dmH4lvktPTK8DtBwRwcRD22ItJez7x14G9Lrh9ngWI1vy_AznAH3OKqWD_LRsQUrhExgOKOb4P_nGGlki-o-jcpjJS73Q294_-pVmTyGW45Fi3qk1SG6oAx7XfM/s320/DSC_5617.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
A comparison with the old capping station. Notice the old pads do not have any sort of grate to keep the sponges down, and the rubber on the new ones looks much better.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqnslo3UscbWcSp-QL8LsTZkXUecXIxcqtiKcfA6mtgdJhuzst8j_15Z6wxwxhFN-uTbVBZxYDjlIC_bA0MrgM2ogTWRS-rxrgjum6IOdwKOeGeLaJ2l2t1Nbvf97-IJYVRdM_bhqD0Gqg/s1600/DSC_5624.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqnslo3UscbWcSp-QL8LsTZkXUecXIxcqtiKcfA6mtgdJhuzst8j_15Z6wxwxhFN-uTbVBZxYDjlIC_bA0MrgM2ogTWRS-rxrgjum6IOdwKOeGeLaJ2l2t1Nbvf97-IJYVRdM_bhqD0Gqg/s320/DSC_5624.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Here's the two pumps compared. Notice my old pump is missing the metal bracket holding the hoses in place. I'm not sure if that was originally there or it's a new feature added in later pumps.<br />
Also, the ink lines supplied with the new pump do not have connectors halfway through them, so there's better path for the ink to flow.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG8Tb25kRql4059mkW1L-lg6048-M3FSpaLpyi4tHk8-cpuzuOyt7THkoEshyphenhyphenjNdgREFzA2FOYCDdyoTybDhDLc2pqyIRlhMQFarZoaFldjAeYvSfJ4p-hV87Q5oINxm69oVrXcN2EQnH8/s1600/DSC_5626.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG8Tb25kRql4059mkW1L-lg6048-M3FSpaLpyi4tHk8-cpuzuOyt7THkoEshyphenhyphenjNdgREFzA2FOYCDdyoTybDhDLc2pqyIRlhMQFarZoaFldjAeYvSfJ4p-hV87Q5oINxm69oVrXcN2EQnH8/s320/DSC_5626.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
The head itself. This looks shiny and new!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGjMu7uW_0OHwzM6JE4BdcTjFIRUBaMzwyRqkMfNleDxHYB2oCUrRrWlmXYWpHkAY76tLXkJmUANvlduVt6Ps2Ge3w7J6T6LEkUnXIbjA7FzzlfXKjvEmWjg7SzPNJWAlAPciMEcPDTOA5/s1600/DSC_5627.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="277" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGjMu7uW_0OHwzM6JE4BdcTjFIRUBaMzwyRqkMfNleDxHYB2oCUrRrWlmXYWpHkAY76tLXkJmUANvlduVt6Ps2Ge3w7J6T6LEkUnXIbjA7FzzlfXKjvEmWjg7SzPNJWAlAPciMEcPDTOA5/s320/DSC_5627.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
The backside of the head. It has identical markings to the DX2s I pulled out of the printer, so I won't post any comparison pictures here.<br />
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Just to add, here's the bulk ink container. I got this mainly so that I can feed solvent through the system, and it seems like it's constructed pretty well. It's solid, looks like it won't leak (hopefully) and it has some nice features on it. The piercing area is rubber, and the door at the top even has a little ring to pop it off for filling!<br />
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See?<br />
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Overall I have confidence with this kit. All the parts are new and clean, which is very nice after dealing with everything being covered in copious amounts of ink on the printer.<br />
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Also, if anyone is wondering how I've been taking these photos...<br />
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</div>Chris Purolahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10889576164712613561noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7011549475907909940.post-68867925824433030182012-01-22T23:27:00.000-08:002012-01-22T23:54:25.404-08:00Capping station and pumpThis post is a how-to on replacing the capping station and pump. It's just a draft post for now, as I just did this and don't have it put back together yet, but I thought I'd post it up just so curious people can see what's up. This post will be edited tomorrow when the supplies come in.<br />
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I'm shrinking the images smaller on my posts to keep the scrolling down, as Blogger insists on having narrow post widths. As usual, click on any of them to get much larger shots.<br />
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I also picked up a cheap loupe ($14) from a local art store, for looking at the printouts to analyze dot placement. This is important for good head alignment, so I'll let you all know how it goes.<br />
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First, this is the capping station and pump assembly. Note the pump line routing, and how it connects to the station. This is important.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1H54D_OirQEfK2K5aXPLUQP-KvUabC_CpOpCspIoV7UH9Hb4i6PzByR-vJ3_ho0FaV5xE-_-DkjhxDMeheNSb4QCVIA5DhB39jyVdk0cmczSiSSJLm_5hihRHdUTWrro0h0EMnTs-eYXW/s1600/DSC_5589.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="195" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1H54D_OirQEfK2K5aXPLUQP-KvUabC_CpOpCspIoV7UH9Hb4i6PzByR-vJ3_ho0FaV5xE-_-DkjhxDMeheNSb4QCVIA5DhB39jyVdk0cmczSiSSJLm_5hihRHdUTWrro0h0EMnTs-eYXW/s200/DSC_5589.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
Notice that the tubes connecting to the capping station are curved to
enter into the pump in a certain way. That's how we can tell which lines
will be going to the capping station. The lines don't cross, they will
be going to the pump on the same side of the capping station as they are
on.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXHLkKyFngVhhDDpN6uzkU1qKqfMibot8pEIvSkSfEiMxVi9LoU_dQkI0zX-gq1-n_jGNlvXxlLeqUaTnjMG6IgqTp7P4Xew1bLX5N9iALHEJuJPRHXLK63k3D-UfpGKT0y0HaWU191Prt/s1600/DSC_5604edit.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="197" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXHLkKyFngVhhDDpN6uzkU1qKqfMibot8pEIvSkSfEiMxVi9LoU_dQkI0zX-gq1-n_jGNlvXxlLeqUaTnjMG6IgqTp7P4Xew1bLX5N9iALHEJuJPRHXLK63k3D-UfpGKT0y0HaWU191Prt/s200/DSC_5604edit.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
Here's another diagram where I've written in the way the lines run. (Capping Station is abbreviated) It's kind of complicated, but basically, both lines enter the pumps in the same way, and both exit the pumps. Both drain lines exit out of the back of the pump. The hose basically runs in a "U" inside the pump, with rollers using peristaltic action to pump the ink through the lines. While the pumps could run either direction, having one of them hooked up backwards would cause one nozzle to not be pumped out, making ink spill or keeping the nozzle from being properly cleaned.<br />
The little bit I circled in green is a cut in the drain line. Ink was prolly pouring out here, so this is most likely the culprit for one of my ink leaks.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCwHP3YY2R-5JLhQ0pFaOZAdEvbhL8VXZMoJWFNZm7-UwwPaircD7mg1oFt6YnMng2vnaOmDAxOP35pyTeHB2dLsPBTtaGMLsTpHxV7lt5-k7NoJh1FAXlHrTZbrEXPtFZtWM3MSzYjIPv/s1600/DSC_5577.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="132" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCwHP3YY2R-5JLhQ0pFaOZAdEvbhL8VXZMoJWFNZm7-UwwPaircD7mg1oFt6YnMng2vnaOmDAxOP35pyTeHB2dLsPBTtaGMLsTpHxV7lt5-k7NoJh1FAXlHrTZbrEXPtFZtWM3MSzYjIPv/s200/DSC_5577.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
Remove the screw holding the capping station into the holder.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcfbVvMc6Uvc_lms7-W_JIH2tSqLB6jXevskquFCs5vEsVMlQG7WPI9ZMCX924as7WUurrHYQU7OLRY5TJuQ_SF1FHest32GAw271lDecEIdQ9R-eyvtXrdhlvIBuFbbyvYKg9ci6br5E5/s1600/DSC_5580.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcfbVvMc6Uvc_lms7-W_JIH2tSqLB6jXevskquFCs5vEsVMlQG7WPI9ZMCX924as7WUurrHYQU7OLRY5TJuQ_SF1FHest32GAw271lDecEIdQ9R-eyvtXrdhlvIBuFbbyvYKg9ci6br5E5/s200/DSC_5580.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
This will release the spring further and allow the capping station to be lifted out by the screw side. If you are only replacing the capping station, it may be wise to mark the hoses, but if you are replacing the pump as well, that won't help.<br />
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Disconnect the hoses from the now-freed capping station. Mark them if you aren't replacing the pump, if you are, make note of how the hoses are routed. Here's removing one...<br />
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And the other.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCZd2eCblQV6wkxwFJbvxvVScHNUpPt-c1EDXjiD_UYMTkNKdEcFsQ6iC_e5JP6goDmdM1eQDGAEO9MZmOEPsXTGWE0kMdfMGj1BZkGX6ib1GVOOvFGPM2ibm0zWMsr-n3RDRdNs1ZXcTn/s1600/DSC_5587.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="141" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCZd2eCblQV6wkxwFJbvxvVScHNUpPt-c1EDXjiD_UYMTkNKdEcFsQ6iC_e5JP6goDmdM1eQDGAEO9MZmOEPsXTGWE0kMdfMGj1BZkGX6ib1GVOOvFGPM2ibm0zWMsr-n3RDRdNs1ZXcTn/s200/DSC_5587.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
The capping station is now freed, and can be removed from the assembly.<br />
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Now that we have removed the capping station, we need to remove the pump. Here is a picture of the assembly with the capping station removed, for reference.<br />
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Start removing the pump by unscrewing the screw at the base of the bracket holding the pump to the main assembly.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG8QgR6vjTmbsSJ6waItJ04eETdhivt8ef_GlDvazWgEG7mSOtUjBFzbspkT47rlTstxsx33JiK4j2UzkDtpFXiyhG7KixLGAXHDAwTn_WFg2tC3xh2WUhgvhKc0EG3Z_4IFG-f5QS-gdg/s1600/DSC_5595.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="186" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG8QgR6vjTmbsSJ6waItJ04eETdhivt8ef_GlDvazWgEG7mSOtUjBFzbspkT47rlTstxsx33JiK4j2UzkDtpFXiyhG7KixLGAXHDAwTn_WFg2tC3xh2WUhgvhKc0EG3Z_4IFG-f5QS-gdg/s200/DSC_5595.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
To remove the gears holding the pump in place, you also need to remove the two screws on the outside of the pump housing to allow the gear plate to come off.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQpPEQwC8wYOm9y_dffityY_vtNZODujHBbrqkTQa3_8bsr4LdzM6_CsonOpM2qdE-vIZ4aMLg_u2Y1Q8V7iVKtVxqHS3ac3mAigNZyj7asuk1WfLq4RPtMc8g9yvRcLovSmXFbJCKGqaB/s1600/DSC_5596.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="193" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQpPEQwC8wYOm9y_dffityY_vtNZODujHBbrqkTQa3_8bsr4LdzM6_CsonOpM2qdE-vIZ4aMLg_u2Y1Q8V7iVKtVxqHS3ac3mAigNZyj7asuk1WfLq4RPtMc8g9yvRcLovSmXFbJCKGqaB/s200/DSC_5596.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
The gear plate is removed. The small gears are attached, the long shafts are freed.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYZu2lDPl2-BSXvOSdrE_0cTAG0hFcTliQW-6qnrk5IB1Olp4WSEggLU8z0y1ba8jwsvQ8hx1T5FIqm8XhMed04x9Rn6yvnqgc6MHbSYSN_tCqYWDMJ_3u24mHyaNcoUnL6JMziP3u16c2/s1600/DSC_5597.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="196" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYZu2lDPl2-BSXvOSdrE_0cTAG0hFcTliQW-6qnrk5IB1Olp4WSEggLU8z0y1ba8jwsvQ8hx1T5FIqm8XhMed04x9Rn6yvnqgc6MHbSYSN_tCqYWDMJ_3u24mHyaNcoUnL6JMziP3u16c2/s200/DSC_5597.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
Now that the long drive shaft has been removed, we can remove the pump.<br />
<br />Chris Purolahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10889576164712613561noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7011549475907909940.post-64546627986657924042012-01-20T22:59:00.000-08:002012-01-20T22:59:36.160-08:00Quick CleaningWell, I was bored, and having just mixed up that solvent, I decided to give it a whirl and try cleaning up the electronics box cover. That thing has a huge mess of ink on it. Well, it did. Here's some pix:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFqGewwBZWerYz1iknZT95nqVOSWiXBiuAYNKWEu9LFGW-6eVvIBS_7Uwa5M32EQ9SOjdn5GWaDKjoiRiZ8XK-QA3-1TfA3OX7wobUmPWUhA6OKyZg_vvCbgaWBCAICIGmESOvSGyVAHB0/s1600/DSC_5565.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFqGewwBZWerYz1iknZT95nqVOSWiXBiuAYNKWEu9LFGW-6eVvIBS_7Uwa5M32EQ9SOjdn5GWaDKjoiRiZ8XK-QA3-1TfA3OX7wobUmPWUhA6OKyZg_vvCbgaWBCAICIGmESOvSGyVAHB0/s320/DSC_5565.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
This is the 'before' pic. A little cleanup I did on the side for the previous demo pictures, but otherwise, just how it was. The ink blotches there are actually caked ink.. it's been dripping down there for some time. Looks like since the last service was botched.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQJR1kNmsnquoEtaKLVAvfl4C1X4IuGtVSeJG8RKT7lJ4zlLJpAuSxCUFgnQYBlDG3qKg5qyQeBpT0F_YWnJmiHlJxGsIgl5jhqizBol2qsbEPlIKBhH4laoQKkA55KaUuRRRxat7iAHvr/s1600/DSC_5566.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQJR1kNmsnquoEtaKLVAvfl4C1X4IuGtVSeJG8RKT7lJ4zlLJpAuSxCUFgnQYBlDG3qKg5qyQeBpT0F_YWnJmiHlJxGsIgl5jhqizBol2qsbEPlIKBhH4laoQKkA55KaUuRRRxat7iAHvr/s320/DSC_5566.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
My method for cleaning it is something I should mention, since I was trying to NOT use 800 paper towels. I basically dabbed a liberal amount of the solvent onto the ink blob, and let it soak in to soften/dissolve the ink. I then used the paper towel to scrape off as much of the bulk ink as I could, and repeated. It only took a couple passes on each large blob. Afterwards, I went over it with a solvent-dampened clean one, and that finished things off.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpRUiZrYZst3HDlPkee7CKcD751tyapNK7xIUD_G2pjlJVwwcuAcJMpJlAo1gsUfrTgxrcibVdaoRHNyw1kjLDdtEIYHpcZK-b-EIXdjVxRvg6OmurDlD_o16VhujSR7HELmAg_aqcXfkq/s1600/DSC_5569.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpRUiZrYZst3HDlPkee7CKcD751tyapNK7xIUD_G2pjlJVwwcuAcJMpJlAo1gsUfrTgxrcibVdaoRHNyw1kjLDdtEIYHpcZK-b-EIXdjVxRvg6OmurDlD_o16VhujSR7HELmAg_aqcXfkq/s320/DSC_5569.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
The 'after' shot. This is after I got all that gunk off. The ink seems to have done something to the metal coating, as I was not able to affect the blotches there. The little warning sticker was doing okay at first, but the overlaminate gave in to the solvent, as it had already been badly damaged by the ink. Only the backing (minus the printing) is there.<br />
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All in all, it was a great test. The solvent did a wonderful job of cleaning up the ink from rough metal even, and I'm looking forward to using it for cleaning the lines and whatnot as well.Chris Purolahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10889576164712613561noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7011549475907909940.post-48101121958229098712012-01-20T19:40:00.000-08:002012-01-23T00:30:43.359-08:00SolventsSo, I got the tracking number for my refurb kit today. It ships out of Canada, Quebec, to be precise. It's on the way, and scheduled to be here Monday, and since that's my day off, I'll be here with my friend to work on it. There will be a huge post and lots of info!<br />
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So, to kinda get ready, I decided to start mixing up some of the solvent mix that I've seen on the forums, to see if it really works. Here's what I did:<br />
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I started with a normal quart tin purchased from Lowe's. I was worried about the enamel finish inside would be affected by the solvents, but it appears that it is not, but that's from a short period of time. I'm going to let it hang out in here til Monday and see how it's affected.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqIJaE2J7ODPnGthItwoM6AkkeHyfwqB4XrjH1p9G2V4dGcQyZzZ7h_gS6_gGCd9vAD5vyy98qjigmMAEVdpfa4NAfqTyKEE7oJ3l7fR2XR7ee9kvkRN91rg30mFzWxyoB-aK_vBvyGheD/s1600/DSC_5554.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqIJaE2J7ODPnGthItwoM6AkkeHyfwqB4XrjH1p9G2V4dGcQyZzZ7h_gS6_gGCd9vAD5vyy98qjigmMAEVdpfa4NAfqTyKEE7oJ3l7fR2XR7ee9kvkRN91rg30mFzWxyoB-aK_vBvyGheD/s320/DSC_5554.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
By the way, red Solo cups are polystyrene, and they don't like Acetone!<br />
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Usually, the mix is mentioned as being 4 or 5 parts Butyl Carbitol to one part Acetone. I mixed at 5 to 1.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYVAIWAsiPxmYyyMBvfhw1BA1t6YjOwZ3H9gGAys9YIb0Dd7Kv3upJuz_hRoJRigFBvkyM50QTkrYZXWwjKnLsbd3Wjp1NVlVvFzdn7DVBYZU_fZ5ZZkbE6D3LbeTeIW2qmi0Lbw4ZcqeM/s1600/DSC_5556.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="289" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYVAIWAsiPxmYyyMBvfhw1BA1t6YjOwZ3H9gGAys9YIb0Dd7Kv3upJuz_hRoJRigFBvkyM50QTkrYZXWwjKnLsbd3Wjp1NVlVvFzdn7DVBYZU_fZ5ZZkbE6D3LbeTeIW2qmi0Lbw4ZcqeM/s320/DSC_5556.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
I mixed 2.5 cups Butyl Carbitol to 0.5 cups Acetone. Poured them into the tin together and stirred. Mixed it is a clear liquid; the Butyl Carbitol is a more viscous liquid, like a light oil, and the Acetone is very watery, be careful when pouring it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLJsjk0YZOgu9m2HpYqoUdEJPh7OxHbB_QFgG8YTUU6jbnuBH6ZlG_WuFxlzfeaF_dYWApQnrJw6KItC14vUuhAYh4AL8LBdhVPEvkMcoDzGq9Oqq8NkMFKmhHHBoQoqpWDjVY0DzUcLru/s1600/DSC_5558.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLJsjk0YZOgu9m2HpYqoUdEJPh7OxHbB_QFgG8YTUU6jbnuBH6ZlG_WuFxlzfeaF_dYWApQnrJw6KItC14vUuhAYh4AL8LBdhVPEvkMcoDzGq9Oqq8NkMFKmhHHBoQoqpWDjVY0DzUcLru/s320/DSC_5558.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
I then tried it out on the electronics lid, which looked pretty nasty. It worked spectacularly.<br />
Here's the lid, after a little cleaning, as a before picture.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOVarSzZZDruIldGhTxjOrujcdLTZjguaWh36fj1ilPMujOns1aVjQrfOlskF-C4jk4XWYOQr63DjhKLp2sUZhJlXRjLaJVo68gZN7MdJdy6MhkE861hJz8VLbjdofVkYVkbB9bVceaTGh/s1600/DSC_5559.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOVarSzZZDruIldGhTxjOrujcdLTZjguaWh36fj1ilPMujOns1aVjQrfOlskF-C4jk4XWYOQr63DjhKLp2sUZhJlXRjLaJVo68gZN7MdJdy6MhkE861hJz8VLbjdofVkYVkbB9bVceaTGh/s320/DSC_5559.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
This is after about three seconds of rubbing with a corner of the paper towel dipped in the solvent.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdtwtK4qUh5mnA-2jq_OEBONBM4mMo_FU-fRyFdcRDvGBHyOKMNhP8-bxgyF-iqxcMjxOGT7aTKTT-rkKOSF9SJyDkU_gwLB5lDBEOhKtPnpxNzTmk8D-QTwkoy6RC38djK_6lOzdsO9Ux/s1600/DSC_5560.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdtwtK4qUh5mnA-2jq_OEBONBM4mMo_FU-fRyFdcRDvGBHyOKMNhP8-bxgyF-iqxcMjxOGT7aTKTT-rkKOSF9SJyDkU_gwLB5lDBEOhKtPnpxNzTmk8D-QTwkoy6RC38djK_6lOzdsO9Ux/s320/DSC_5560.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
And the after, as you can see that whole area rubbed is just clean beneath. I didn't do a whole lot more, I'll wait a little to work on that, but it really works well on the dried ink. I even used it on an old, very dry ink spill, and it came right up, no problems. I'm excited for how this should work on the insides of the printer.Chris Purolahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10889576164712613561noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7011549475907909940.post-80126562077917284852012-01-18T22:22:00.000-08:002012-01-23T05:44:43.459-08:00Ribbon cablesSo I since I've been idle for a few days, I thought I should write a little
more here, take some shots, and show off what I'm working on.<br />
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I set up my little studio here so I can get some good shots of the work I'm doing.<br />
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Basically, I found someone (<a href="http://atlanticcomputerservice.com/default.aspx" target="_blank">Atlantic Computer Service</a>)
who had the ribbon cables for cheaper than other places online. I
bought a pair of them there (used, of course) yesterday, and because
they're in Seminole, FL, I got them today!<br />
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I ordered "<a href="http://cmykparts.com/MUTOH%20FALCON%20OUTDOOR%20REFURBISH%20KIT.html" target="_blank">The Big One</a>", aka the refurb kit for my printer from <a href="http://cmykparts.com/">CMYKParts.com</a>. Hopefully it'll get here soon. I also ordered a bulk ink tank (to fill with cleaning solvent), and a syringe kit with tubing to help work the solvents through the system.<br />
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So what I
need to do today is explain more about <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zero_Insertion_Force" target="_blank">ZIF</a> <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flat_Flex_Cable" target="_blank">FFC</a> (Zero Insertion Force Flat Flexible Cable) connectors and cables, and show how
to replace them in the printer. The ones I bought also had ink on them, but
just a little bit here and there, so nothing as bad as the ones that came out of my printer. The important thing
is that the plastic covering is in great shape and they ohm out
properly (I'll show more about how to do that later on as well)<br />
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So,
first we'll start with the heater control panel, as it's pretty
important. First, you need to remove it from the printer with the two
screws on top. This is pretty easy. After that, disconnect the cable
from the electronics box and pull it out (carefully) through the holes
it's routed through.<br />
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Now that you have it outside the
printer, we can work on it. First, we flip it over onto it's face. I've
covered some of the old cable with paper towel cause I don't want the
copious amounts of ink on it to mess up my backdrop.<br />
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First, you'll need to remove the two screws holding the ribbon cable to the metal. They have attached washers.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuG0Qiq0imCy-P5adZU36sOAxc2j-cnw1UKRCFJdXwJDBdSHp83uvvAfPDDfTPnUw5ss-bqNmb5nec_7BBb0JUWZmSw8JJFfCKXnwPE7yhwXFl0nN6rH7_bx0Re-IY7Q29ViC8fB8B9M0n/s1600/DSC_5527.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuG0Qiq0imCy-P5adZU36sOAxc2j-cnw1UKRCFJdXwJDBdSHp83uvvAfPDDfTPnUw5ss-bqNmb5nec_7BBb0JUWZmSw8JJFfCKXnwPE7yhwXFl0nN6rH7_bx0Re-IY7Q29ViC8fB8B9M0n/s320/DSC_5527.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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Then,
remove the metal plate and place it aside (It's a good idea to keep the
screws with the plate so you know where they go when you reassemble!)<br />
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Now,
remove the four outer screws holding the gold plate down to the silver
face.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6M8uC82BS5G2eaiyiO-TIHvQS9a2fvLgwXVt_Ee2t6414LAezCBlkwf92z5952oX17oxMg8mTFUL0U-358YYLbKPhr_XiaPf60CpH5_a1aQS2ldAVc8MiumtMrqE1EUDBk4yq88jpo4Pi/s1600/DSC_5529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6M8uC82BS5G2eaiyiO-TIHvQS9a2fvLgwXVt_Ee2t6414LAezCBlkwf92z5952oX17oxMg8mTFUL0U-358YYLbKPhr_XiaPf60CpH5_a1aQS2ldAVc8MiumtMrqE1EUDBk4yq88jpo4Pi/s320/DSC_5529.JPG" width="320" /></a>These have washers that are NOT attached, so don't lose them!</div>
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Flip the cable over to the other side of the panel, and remove the gold plate from the front panel assembly.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnboH4i1PsxUR_XtECyBKf3_CuhrV2mwEtgPwQm0mtWZzUSYtK2tFytoCfO1jlJeMgYUM74A_78U0oNTR9pMc3RdLXEavzLcw6YQearTMVW5ow6lM0nAVKn9py75AqV4c8MHb-tfFyqI7x/s1600/DSC_5531.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnboH4i1PsxUR_XtECyBKf3_CuhrV2mwEtgPwQm0mtWZzUSYtK2tFytoCfO1jlJeMgYUM74A_78U0oNTR9pMc3RdLXEavzLcw6YQearTMVW5ow6lM0nAVKn9py75AqV4c8MHb-tfFyqI7x/s320/DSC_5531.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAMtLl_yiciphA4rNY8J5QeXtqH-7ApFFJwHd_tkDBqGTAz_GQvwz-Bg-s7sOiVZfRQr_w0ZGy7ZsUGGzQeOX5EcRl1jWNmuhT5RQzzm3zjt25rqoOU9D-6g7IbCvxzgTvK1a1SPCseMa8/s1600/DSC_5532.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAMtLl_yiciphA4rNY8J5QeXtqH-7ApFFJwHd_tkDBqGTAz_GQvwz-Bg-s7sOiVZfRQr_w0ZGy7ZsUGGzQeOX5EcRl1jWNmuhT5RQzzm3zjt25rqoOU9D-6g7IbCvxzgTvK1a1SPCseMa8/s320/DSC_5532.JPG" width="320" /></a>Now,
remove the four screws holding the circuit board down. They are the
large ones on the outside corners. They may be in tight, so make sure
you use an appropriately-sized screwdriver so you don't strip them, and
press down on the screw while turning! These screws are longer than the
other two types of screws, so it shouldn't be hard to keep them separate.<br />
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Then, lift the board up and out of the front panel. You'll notice the long pushbuttons, be sure not to bump them around too much.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKM-4QQPFQEHlWrsTbNwBaKb9wYp5uKCvJl_oWwjMFT3hIVbr08BIDG2ewwZI72Oyte2oRqq5blZTGSCZz0AzxIGYZfXxG4mi7KqWjiFn1QOq50woV6C7pBEHJwI5F7RdrUpRK8D7jnRXw/s1600/DSC_5533.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKM-4QQPFQEHlWrsTbNwBaKb9wYp5uKCvJl_oWwjMFT3hIVbr08BIDG2ewwZI72Oyte2oRqq5blZTGSCZz0AzxIGYZfXxG4mi7KqWjiFn1QOq50woV6C7pBEHJwI5F7RdrUpRK8D7jnRXw/s320/DSC_5533.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUH7YirIwvF2Hs6obmNHZoT7yQbTWQ4k9pteMzaMWIhbEd-HcF1gWzFFveZwsahC_UJBKxq5n9tpntA28xgcuZEbSxlJGXA0g4Hq5kDP_SQqvlT2zOdU11k9BciqpwlzEzE1ynBqK29k17/s1600/DSC_5534.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUH7YirIwvF2Hs6obmNHZoT7yQbTWQ4k9pteMzaMWIhbEd-HcF1gWzFFveZwsahC_UJBKxq5n9tpntA28xgcuZEbSxlJGXA0g4Hq5kDP_SQqvlT2zOdU11k9BciqpwlzEzE1ynBqK29k17/s320/DSC_5534.JPG" width="320" /></a>The ZIF socket for the cable on this board is a press-in type, so there is no lever or slide to move. It relies on the rigidity of the cable, fitting much like an old NES or GameBoy cartridge would, it slides against pins on the inside.<br />
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To remove it, carefully pull straight back, wiggling it very slightly side to side. You will see it slowly move outwards until it pops free. Don't bend it very far to either side or you risk bending pins inside or breaking off the cable within the connector.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiu3kc0JcrRBwbtRcUG-YsTny_zNOxajG8cibUy6hCxfFs4y9z6G4xciy5DnhBBqlkPryXab_szdQtn1GwRD0JDiz2bPUsB9Z9z8i_mJZ3LG3EcgK1dXfuGfDOQcyXUdLr9jwwgcswj_mO/s1600/DSC_5536.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiu3kc0JcrRBwbtRcUG-YsTny_zNOxajG8cibUy6hCxfFs4y9z6G4xciy5DnhBBqlkPryXab_szdQtn1GwRD0JDiz2bPUsB9Z9z8i_mJZ3LG3EcgK1dXfuGfDOQcyXUdLr9jwwgcswj_mO/s320/DSC_5536.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
The cable and board are separated. Now to install the new cables.<br />
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You can see here, that the old cable (paper towel) matches the curves of this used cable. This is how I'll determine which end and which cable to use here.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwC_ztbBWaPhgk33x0_xpyzgwpdbRitR4yedeObIC4hrdBvC_h2QYrHFcYCmklsMOqq8-8UP16kuPaOI_yUULqx1T2DrXijbhZeHxzrXdwRwAmIi5jdqeRNszNKlOZgmQN1YDQAQmRDLy-/s1600/DSC_5538.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a> <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwC_ztbBWaPhgk33x0_xpyzgwpdbRitR4yedeObIC4hrdBvC_h2QYrHFcYCmklsMOqq8-8UP16kuPaOI_yUULqx1T2DrXijbhZeHxzrXdwRwAmIi5jdqeRNszNKlOZgmQN1YDQAQmRDLy-/s1600/DSC_5538.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="218" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwC_ztbBWaPhgk33x0_xpyzgwpdbRitR4yedeObIC4hrdBvC_h2QYrHFcYCmklsMOqq8-8UP16kuPaOI_yUULqx1T2DrXijbhZeHxzrXdwRwAmIi5jdqeRNszNKlOZgmQN1YDQAQmRDLy-/s320/DSC_5538.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
First, look into the end of the connector. You will see a side with pins, and a side without. The side with pins is where the silvery side of the cable goes. The blue side (stabilizer tape side) goes down, in this case.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJx3OOpqGvs0R3Q9cnVtiKaca7lhwhZB6zbE6VI9UBkWu1W5pMRWASBf-BfhQdJv_FDl3kkWhpMR5uU7C0Pi2eSaMaonL1gci5F_Kz1sZ9u8Bb_wZc0a0fs4018DlvclbgZDuH0VdlzHaU/s1600/DSC_5541.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJx3OOpqGvs0R3Q9cnVtiKaca7lhwhZB6zbE6VI9UBkWu1W5pMRWASBf-BfhQdJv_FDl3kkWhpMR5uU7C0Pi2eSaMaonL1gci5F_Kz1sZ9u8Bb_wZc0a0fs4018DlvclbgZDuH0VdlzHaU/s320/DSC_5541.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Position your thumb very close to the connector; this is to ensure the cable does not buckle as you insert it. Gently slide the tip of the cable into the slot, and while doing so, keep the cable pressed against the board to keep it rigid. Wiggle it back and forth slightly while applying even pressure inwards.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikyzsdUjSe5ymJn4cyvfnoa5jNES2Svc-orNCrRTpDACEHm0zgyKTuhombuzeW9xcI38biKsbhP47E3ohLyyDGfhARZReCBcZUESdZXkhuWmGkBWQDchcMqWyYa62QXD9rWqispvAicaxe/s1600/DSC_5539.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikyzsdUjSe5ymJn4cyvfnoa5jNES2Svc-orNCrRTpDACEHm0zgyKTuhombuzeW9xcI38biKsbhP47E3ohLyyDGfhARZReCBcZUESdZXkhuWmGkBWQDchcMqWyYa62QXD9rWqispvAicaxe/s320/DSC_5539.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
The cable will start to slide in with some resistance, then the resistance will suddenly drop and it should slip in all the way. Ensure it's fully seated (without buckling the cable) and you're done!<br />
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Now, to reassemble the rest of the panel, we do the above in reverse. Place the LCD face-down onto the front panel, align the holes, and install the four long screws. Ensure the long buttons are seated properly in the holes before tightening the screws.<br />
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Then comes the gold plate. Fit it on with the angled side fitting against the large angled piece on the silver front panel, and install the four screws with washers.<br />
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Last, fold the ribbon cable back over the panel, and install the strain relief bracket. make sure there's a bit of slack in the cable, so that it's not rubbing against the sharp edge of the gold plate.<br />
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Now, in my instance, I didn't really need to replace the heater cable. In fact, the one that came was kinda beat up, moreso than the one I had. After washing the cable under some hot water (keeping the ends dry) and paper towel, I found that the cable itself seemed to be in good condition, and the only one with an issue was the main control panel cable. I did this purely for the tutorial and photos, and to see what was inside.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmuDMmyvfJhCLlN6kpO5aDWRYSqmgxuCTlT3bHEKmJ5tAboMJrthmNB335GlBYknZFjs6ZCaQzaIoo85vyLTkDx5yJcWk7k45GrCKBAsZXyqMtm-rWV9RLCSrJR0nqf-96y3fklqaCbFQs/s1600/DSC_5544.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmuDMmyvfJhCLlN6kpO5aDWRYSqmgxuCTlT3bHEKmJ5tAboMJrthmNB335GlBYknZFjs6ZCaQzaIoo85vyLTkDx5yJcWk7k45GrCKBAsZXyqMtm-rWV9RLCSrJR0nqf-96y3fklqaCbFQs/s320/DSC_5544.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Next up, we have the main control panel. I'm going to show this one as well, because it's using a different socket, and there's a lot less disassembly required.<br />
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This is the control panel removed from the unit. It's cable follows the same path as the heater control panel, only it attaches to a different point in the electronics box.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_D2YIrJaixtM7NB0fRj-h1gcfO0BhtZ2GShE9MLsvo08sIwvqYIekIF-F-wQg01XRUAeMUPbcpqUvTV0NH8y4vz7XshggzA635JpoFOUjYE7C36QARVa3H-9y2yWRXmlRpvQnoWcA4bG3/s1600/DSC_5546.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_D2YIrJaixtM7NB0fRj-h1gcfO0BhtZ2GShE9MLsvo08sIwvqYIekIF-F-wQg01XRUAeMUPbcpqUvTV0NH8y4vz7XshggzA635JpoFOUjYE7C36QARVa3H-9y2yWRXmlRpvQnoWcA4bG3/s320/DSC_5546.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
To remove the cable, first you need to release the cable strain relief. This is done by loosening the screw on the strain relief. You don't need to fully remove it, loosening it up is plenty to remove the thin cable.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqBa27dtlI01Fzz7DtAg4VGMJW1XnOkV6JTrXBgVvks-xlgf93xW0fwXyueatfZgKZia60vMZdVz96aSlp0KiKt_gIjKX6doC5hMavqxqHMJggp2jD-3QEf5t-dJqCe7CorR67Qf_SMgJf/s1600/DSC_5547.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="282" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqBa27dtlI01Fzz7DtAg4VGMJW1XnOkV6JTrXBgVvks-xlgf93xW0fwXyueatfZgKZia60vMZdVz96aSlp0KiKt_gIjKX6doC5hMavqxqHMJggp2jD-3QEf5t-dJqCe7CorR67Qf_SMgJf/s320/DSC_5547.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqBa27dtlI01Fzz7DtAg4VGMJW1XnOkV6JTrXBgVvks-xlgf93xW0fwXyueatfZgKZia60vMZdVz96aSlp0KiKt_gIjKX6doC5hMavqxqHMJggp2jD-3QEf5t-dJqCe7CorR67Qf_SMgJf/s1600/DSC_5547.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a>This is the ZIF connector we are dealing with. It is the locking/unlocking type, which you can tell by noting the two shells, and the ridge about the bottom shell which is to provide an area to grip when sliding it.<br />
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After the strain relief has been loosened, you need to unlock the ZIF connector BEFORE you pull out the cable. If you don't, the pressure against the pins inside can damage the cable AND the pins within. To release it, use your fingernails (or fingers) to GENTLY pull the large outer shell with the ridge downward.<br />
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You may wiggle it slightly, after it loosens up it will slide to the bottom and stop, looking like the photo to the right. Do not pull it past this or you will break the connector!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGUEN68l99UQZ8ui5apTNJefEBhR_qGz6UOLC0cXqUZ7WUol6qhpawfsyVHuDHoBX-zjIJTXoujl_f3U_LJm5-FRY-Q3_Y2IbILehfZzfW14QUPW5xLVHXwczOCL0QdARpiol7v7a_nyLF/s1600/DSC_5550.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGUEN68l99UQZ8ui5apTNJefEBhR_qGz6UOLC0cXqUZ7WUol6qhpawfsyVHuDHoBX-zjIJTXoujl_f3U_LJm5-FRY-Q3_Y2IbILehfZzfW14QUPW5xLVHXwczOCL0QdARpiol7v7a_nyLF/s320/DSC_5550.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Now, carefully pull the ribbon cable straight out with both hands, and it should slide easily free. Note the orientation on the cable, as it is more difficult to see inside these connectors to find the pins. The orientation on this panel is with the silver side of the cable facing away from the board.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxpezOgB_9nnGyKgdMRvzA-iUq1IdxrYuh0kfYilLYVEC6dg0e4DWNVsosjueg840i9_Q8huGFLWDqn8H2hvTk5e8Q_qPADSePzqfpiee5L8Kkhyphenhyphenkqu1PA9Tb0QXlG1uOFKOTxz6jk4I1n/s1600/DSC_5551.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxpezOgB_9nnGyKgdMRvzA-iUq1IdxrYuh0kfYilLYVEC6dg0e4DWNVsosjueg840i9_Q8huGFLWDqn8H2hvTk5e8Q_qPADSePzqfpiee5L8Kkhyphenhyphenkqu1PA9Tb0QXlG1uOFKOTxz6jk4I1n/s320/DSC_5551.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Replacement is easy as well. Simply slide the cable into the slot and push it gently to the rear of the connector (until it stops). If it does not slide in, make sure the little latch is down all the way (don't pull it hard, it just sometimes slips upwards a little)<br />
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Then, using two fingers, push straight up on the ridged shell until it stops, which will lock the cable in place.<br />
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When you are done, it will look like this. <br />
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Re-tighten the cable strain relief (make sure you leave a little slack) and you are done!Chris Purolahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10889576164712613561noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7011549475907909940.post-55872750535280485002012-01-10T01:21:00.000-08:002012-01-23T05:43:11.782-08:00Small updateHere's just a slight update on what I did today.<br />
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Headed down to Sherwin-Williams' commercial store and picked up a gallon of Butyl Carbitol ($60), and then hit Lowe's for a quart of acetone ($8). This mixture should (as mentioned in other forums) with a 4-5/1 ratio of Butyl Carbitol to acetone, give me a similar solvent to what's in the inks themselves. Hopefully this will work well for cleaning the printer.<br />
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I thought I'd take a couple more shots of the problem areas to show what I'm dealing with in terms of ink problems.<br />
Here we can see the fan housing, where the ink has dripped down from the mis-fitted spit cup, and caused the cover to this housing (removed, along with a foam filter) to melt. The cover looks salvageable, so hopefully that will be alright. The filter will need to be replaced; we plan on tracing it onto some similar foam and cutting it out, then reinstalling it after cleaning up the mess.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPwxfzb-5FTmzVzUyb3YEgaON_raY-mEVH1iPehHOZ4Oik1bIHXK4dndIH-QYQngqPnOY7Cwe8lKAMc50ea_LJmCx86W2fmhKoeLbqLE1c775nq2-Esl0lkGSfQ0CkERgmvkK1nmVydXQq/s1600/spit+cup.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPwxfzb-5FTmzVzUyb3YEgaON_raY-mEVH1iPehHOZ4Oik1bIHXK4dndIH-QYQngqPnOY7Cwe8lKAMc50ea_LJmCx86W2fmhKoeLbqLE1c775nq2-Esl0lkGSfQ0CkERgmvkK1nmVydXQq/s320/spit+cup.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Here's another shot of the spit cup mount. The issue here is that the plastic on the spit cup is solvent-proof, while the plastic that it mounts to is not. Stupid design. Though, this printer was originally made just for pigment inks, so they probably cut corners in making it solvent-ready.<br />
Basically, the problem here is that the spit cup slips down onto a pair of pegs, which are no longer there. One was broken off by a previous service job, the other came off when I attempted to remove the spit cup. I had a hard time removing it, because the ink acted like model cement and melted the peg into the spit cup. It also weakened the plastic here, causing it to break. I'll need to figure out another way to mount the cup back in.<br />
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Well, that's all for the moment, I know I mentioned I'd be cleaning it today, but my friend couldn't make it. I'm currently investigating some options for the FFC cable that ties the control panels into the main board, so I'll keep updating with what I find on those. I've sent out a request to a couple companies who manufacture the cables to see if I can get small quantities made, and I have a lead on another company which might be able to do it. FFC cables of this type are readily available, however, not in such long lengths. The longest I've seen on eBay is about 600cm, which is too short.<br />
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Keep checking back!Chris Purolahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10889576164712613561noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7011549475907909940.post-47546434824257745152012-01-08T16:43:00.000-08:002012-01-08T17:37:36.357-08:00Rocking and Rolling..Alright, so here we go, going to start diving into this thing. It seems a bit daunting, but I'm going to go at it and see where we can get.<br />
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A friend is interested in using this printer with me, so she's offered to help with some costs and work involved in getting it back up and running again. It's just the drive I need to work on it, so she came over and we proceeded to tear down the printer to see just what I'm going to need to get this thing up and running again.<br />
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While I don't have any in-depth pictures of the teardown, it's pretty straightforward. Everything is held in with screws that can be easily found, so nothing too hard there. Here's a few pictures, and comments on disassembly:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh66dv7i6l6q_VR9uNLglZ2O3RRGRSzOq8dJHiW51yRCSOoUpxjxTxY14tIsKCbI7zLZxABI9eFfd-yJ49FLupJKJITfo-dG2NPV6rNzp0FNLkkG8nYTt__ghHiE59rqwWQBI26He6o3Rv/s1600/DSC_5438.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh66dv7i6l6q_VR9uNLglZ2O3RRGRSzOq8dJHiW51yRCSOoUpxjxTxY14tIsKCbI7zLZxABI9eFfd-yJ49FLupJKJITfo-dG2NPV6rNzp0FNLkkG8nYTt__ghHiE59rqwWQBI26He6o3Rv/s320/DSC_5438.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Starting out, this is the left side of the printer. The cover is removed with two screws at the bottom of the cover. You can see the metal band idler to drive the head, and the belt to drive the grit roller.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi692Wa9CnfjruO8kJ5I-tdCWOUDOhJlGwUf926ldgX_N0V3Y7iKQbQxibnhcuJ_2m-ufQ6bIhsz4Q6TTSzcmTQfTYdsfN11AFsnBeBlDFkL6qIuEsmpprFF5hrEjhF6S3IvunP-v_RCEOF/s1600/DSC_5441.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi692Wa9CnfjruO8kJ5I-tdCWOUDOhJlGwUf926ldgX_N0V3Y7iKQbQxibnhcuJ_2m-ufQ6bIhsz4Q6TTSzcmTQfTYdsfN11AFsnBeBlDFkL6qIuEsmpprFF5hrEjhF6S3IvunP-v_RCEOF/s320/DSC_5441.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
This is the right side of the printer. Here you can see the lever to raise/lower the upper pinch rollers, the large DC motor to drive the steel belt, the hoses routing to the waste ink bucket, and at the top, the switch to enable/disable the printer based on the lid position. If your printer keep saying to close the lid, or allows printing when the lid is open (or you want it to), adjust the switch mount until it engages properly.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWqKVm4BjZudPbEBxnNXT1E_oJK4HKliOreLJtiIPWEAQkU-55g3P_gBCXVNzAbAow-zim_IwL3M_i2L2rGF7HC5r6OrSpfbTmW502BegqWh07MeHTKAQ54mRdlc3mLVYW6QXaY8TesFiB/s1600/DSC_5440.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWqKVm4BjZudPbEBxnNXT1E_oJK4HKliOreLJtiIPWEAQkU-55g3P_gBCXVNzAbAow-zim_IwL3M_i2L2rGF7HC5r6OrSpfbTmW502BegqWh07MeHTKAQ54mRdlc3mLVYW6QXaY8TesFiB/s320/DSC_5440.JPG" width="213" /></a></div>
This is the front panel area, with the cover removed. In this shot, We also removed the front lid, which you can see is missing. The front cover is removed with one screw near the top left of the control panel; the rest of the metal panel needs to be unscrewed from beneath the heater controller to come out. The ribbon cables are standard ribbon connectors; they have plastic pieces that slide downward slightly to release the cable from the connector. Don't try to remove the plastic piece completely or do anything else than slide it up and down, it will break.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKYg79T1CjnVAKolBx1paazUZaM33YHjRzJGbiqEiY6u9Cnl6-_XffWNRd396uMhVyYY8UCaxDCUllPOsAqgE2F9iCjuRr77ui7onQ1-baF44aqI8J8_m8rGINpllR6L9FnaBYvTD-OLlp/s1600/DSC_5449.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKYg79T1CjnVAKolBx1paazUZaM33YHjRzJGbiqEiY6u9Cnl6-_XffWNRd396uMhVyYY8UCaxDCUllPOsAqgE2F9iCjuRr77ui7onQ1-baF44aqI8J8_m8rGINpllR6L9FnaBYvTD-OLlp/s320/DSC_5449.JPG" width="320" /></a>As you can see here, the front panel and heater board have been removed. This allows us to see the ink pump (black object to the left), the capping station (two pads on top) and the waste ink hoses (white/clear hose leaving to the right). The white hoses are from the ink pump, and the clear large hose is from the spit cup. A word of caution about removing the spit cup: While it is made of solvent-resistant plastic, the piece which it is attached to is not. In my case, this ended up with me removing the small supports that hold the cup in place, as they had been damaged by misdirected printer ink. I will need to come up with another way to affix this. (pictures soon) </div>
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Another shot of the control panel area. You can see where the control panel was affixed, as well as where ink splattered/dripped from something being improperly aligned. The hole near the center of the picture which goes down into the electronics enclosure, is covered in ink. This caused the following problem.<br />
Just to the left of this (behind the black plastic piece we removed along with the spit cup) is a foam filter used to clean air going into the vacuum fan area. This was also soaked in ink, so we removed it. We are going to try and locate some high density foam to replace it with, by tracing the old shape and cutting it out of new foam. <br />
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As you can see, the ribbon cable coming from the heater assembly, going down into the electronics enclosure is covered in ink. This is a problem, because the plastic on the ribbon cable is not solvent resistant. While it does not appear to have attacked the cable in this instance too badly, I have not cleaned it yet to check the damage.<br />
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However, on this cable, the one coming from the main control panel, going to the electronics enclosure, the damage is apparent. The cable has been pinched by someone who rebuilt the printer, and at the same time, the solvent worked to soften and strip the plastic insulation from the lines. The bare wire from the ribbon cable is visible. I will need to replace this cable as it is unusable in it's current state.<br />
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This is the lid of the electronics enclosure, also covered in ink. Luckily, it does not appear that any of the ink got down inside the electronics, which is thankful, or much more would have had to be replaced. The warning sticker has been damaged by the solvent inks.<br />
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This is the right side of the electronics enclosure. Here we can see the main power supply (beige board at the bottom), the heater control board ( board with the ribbon cable at the top) and the main control board (to the left). We removed the ribbon cables from this board.<br />
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This is the left side of the electronics enclosure. Here we can clearly see the main control board. This has memory slots (bottom), expansion slots (lower left) and the ribbon cable to the control board (top).<br />
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Moving up to the top of the unit, this is the head. In this shot, we removed the top cover (six screws, two in front, four in back), and the head dust cover. In this shot you can see the six ink lines coming in from the hoses, as well as the plastic holder that supports them. The two round objects near the bottom of the head are adjusters for head height, and there is a general adjust on the right side of the head as well. The cable coming from the left is from the paper cut solenoid which I removed.<br />
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This is the board atop the head. It contains small driver electronics to run the print heads, sheet cut solenoid, and detectors. The barely-visible strip along the back of the machine is the encoder strip, how it senses where it is along the print width.<br />
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Next up: A quick head disassembly tutorial. First, remove the ink lines from the dampers. This is done by carefully loosening the nut (should only need to do a little bit with a small pliers), and unscrewing it. Pulling gently straight upwards will detatch it from the damper. BE CAREFUL at this point, as the ink is a solvent, and the plastic piece which supports the dampers is made of ABS, a plastic which the solvent will attack, soften, and ruin. Make sure you have adequate paper towels on hand for this job, as ink will continue to drip from some lines.<br />
Next, remove the dampers by pulling each STRAIGHT UP. You will need a bit of force for this one, but make sure not to bend it, or you run the risk of snapping off the coupler on the head. Heads are way more expensive than dampers. Make sure you put some paper towel over the damper's outlet when you pull it out, as you will squeeze it and this will squirt out ink.<br />
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We already removed the dampers and one head (and as keen eyes may see, the head cable) to take this series of pictures. To remove the head, you need to first unscrew the screw holding the head down to the plastic carriage. This can be done before or after you remove the spring, and although I did it before, I think it may be easier to use the screw to loosely hold the head in place while installing/removing the spring.<br />
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You will be left with a washer on the pad, which usually sticks there. Pull the washer out with a pair of needle nose pliers.<br />
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Next, remove the spring. I am using a pair of small needle nose pliers to compress the spring on the die-cast side to avoid possibly breaking the plastic side on the head. The die-cast metal side is also shallower, and easier to get the spring off of.<br />
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Showing the spring removed. The head is now loose and can be pulled out of the unit by lifting the base up, and gently sliding it out.<br />
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The head is now free, and can be carefully lifted out.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF_VEXVTTd0F2DtUeZ5h0ND_o_pcL5D_6-cHlosTzkU0B8vtY2XgE7yHuY889ordWVHpiVb1kFxOkr-0lKQHyZ0OkfUUdt8lffv06w42-Ogp2IO19AFSIY_ej3joPTY93-5nj0LjqB5Rt9/s1600/DSC_5502.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF_VEXVTTd0F2DtUeZ5h0ND_o_pcL5D_6-cHlosTzkU0B8vtY2XgE7yHuY889ordWVHpiVb1kFxOkr-0lKQHyZ0OkfUUdt8lffv06w42-Ogp2IO19AFSIY_ej3joPTY93-5nj0LjqB5Rt9/s320/DSC_5502.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Epson DX2 Printer head (uses 2)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
While some people claim some success with solvent and ultrasonic cleaners, parts of the head cannot be submerged. At this point, since people have difficulty reviving heads that have been sitting a few months, while these have been sitting a few years, I will be installing new heads to save the hassle.<br />
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Here is the printer in it's current state. It's torn apart, the electronics are dropped, and it's just awaiting the solvent cleaner. I also need to find a syringe and silicone tubing, though I may just use the old tubing from the ink pump, as I am getting new tubing with the refurb kit from CMYKParts.com</div>
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I plan on looking up the ribbon cables on Mouser or Digi-key, as they are standard electronic parts and I should be able to get them from one of those companies. Barring that, I'll need to locate somewhere to get parts from. </div>
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I'll take some more pictures either tonight or tomorrow morning, and get to work on cleaning it, hopefully I'll be able to get the Butyl Carbitol tomorrow (Sherwyn-Williams' commercial/industrial store was closed today) and start flushing the system. Once I can get some solvent in the lines, that should help keep things liquid until I can get some bulk cartridges to put cleaning solution into and finish flushing the system.</div>
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I plan on ordering the refurb kit around this time next week, and hopefully can get it up and running in a few days after that. Then begins the tinkering...</div>
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If you're finding this helpful, feel free to drop me a line via the links here, or at chorca@gmail.com. Any questions about what I'm doing, or if I'm doing something terribly wrong, please let me know! This is my first time working on a large format printer, so I'm bound to make some mistakes. I'll document them whenever I can, so that you guys don't make the same ones!Chris Purolahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10889576164712613561noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7011549475907909940.post-55305949441785976052011-07-18T08:05:00.000-07:002011-07-18T08:05:19.200-07:00So here's the overview of the project:<br />
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Mutoh Falcon Outdoor 48<br />
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It needs some TLC.</div>
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Currently, I'm looking at a <a href="http://cmykparts.com/MUTOH%20FALCON%20OUTDOOR%20REFURBISH%20KIT.html">kit</a> from <a href="http://cmykparts.com/">CMYKParts.com</a> which will basically let me refurb the printer. New capping station, 2 heads, 6 ink dampers, 2 head wipers, and a pump.</div>
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I need to procure cleaning solution for dissolving the solvent. I'm thinking a bulk ink cartridge that I can refill with solvent a few times, since I'll be using it a lot. Need to pull ink through the lines and into the head, all the ink feed system too.</div>
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There are several places that sell the inks, both bulk and original style cartridges, so that shouldn't be an issue. It also appears that they use standard ValueJET cartridges just fine, and those are still very much in production. Looking at the cartridges it has in it, it's already had the EcoSOL Ultra run through it, so I don't need to do any sort of conversion on it.</div>
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Hoping the ink lines do not need to be replaced, and that they can just be flushed with solvent enough to get the ink out. I'm thinking I'll take the dampers off and just force solvent back and forth through the lines to work out the ink.</div>
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Need to check the bearings and lubricate, make sure the head runs and all. It seems like the head check and such works, it attempts to clean and print a nozzle check correctly so I believe that the mechanics and electronics are working. <strike>I'm not sure about the rear heater; I don't feel any heat coming from the back metal area, so I'm not sure where the heater is, but I need to read up more on it.</strike> Checked up on this. While it's labelled "Rear" on the control panel, the LCD lists it as the "Fixer", which I believe means the platen, and that heats up really quick, which I can both feel on the platen and see on the LCD, and the "Front" (dryer) heater takes longer, which I can also see and feel. Looks like this part is working!<br />
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Only after all that is done, can I buy a couple sets of inks and fire it up, load some media into it and see it print. I've been contemplating working with a couple websites I'm on to see if I can do a freebie sticker of the week or day to kinda bring some business in, and at the same time keep it running once a day or so to make sure the heads and such don't clog again.<br />
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There won't be another post for awhile, as I have to get the money for the <a href="http://cmykparts.com/MUTOH%20FALCON%20OUTDOOR%20REFURBISH%20KIT.html">refurb kit</a> together, and seeing as how I'm buying another CNC, it'll be on hold for a bit.<br />
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<br />Chris Purolahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10889576164712613561noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7011549475907909940.post-50753064871453158752011-07-15T08:49:00.000-07:002011-07-15T08:49:41.993-07:00Well, this is it.<br />
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I've been wanting to get into digital vinyl printing for awhile; I have plenty of experience with cutting and such, using plotters, but I really wanted to be able to get the jobs that I had to turn away or send to someone else done myself.<br />
So, after keeping a watchful eye on Craigslist for a long time, I found the perfect printer: a Mutoh Falcon Outdoor 48".<br />
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Sure, some may say it's not the best printer, that it's rife with issues and is old technology, that much newer things are better, but the real issue is that new printers are very expensive ($15,000). I wanted something somewhat inexpensive that I could work on and get parts for. (Roland ColorCAMMs are TOO old)<br />
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So, I'm now the proud owner of a partially-working Mutoh Falcon!<br />
Here's a little about the machine:<br />
<ul>
<li>It can do 1440x1440dpi color prints onto vinyl using eco-solvent inks, which are good outdoor for a year or two. More if you put overlaminate on them.</li>
<li>It can print up to 46" wide!</li>
<li>It has a take up roller, front and rear heaters, and huge ink tanks!</li>
<li>The person who sold it to me was really awesome and gave me his old copy of Flexi 7.6, which is a RIP used to rasterize graphics into a format the printer can read. </li>
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However, things are not all roses:<br />
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<li>The machine has been sitting for about 3 years without being run. Most of the time I've read that machines sitting even six months will need new heads, but I'm going to try and revive these, I think it may be a lost cause though.</li>
<li>I'm going to need all new supplies for this system. Vinyl, inks, etc, which are not cheap.</li>
<li>The printer will need to be run, at the minimum, through a cleaning cycle every couple days to keep the ink from solidifying in the heads and elsewhere. </li>
<li>I'm going to want a larger plotter, with optical registration to be able to contour-cut the stickers I plan on printing. </li>
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However, I think I'm up to the challenge. I have a good working knowledge of inkjet technologies and printer mechanics, and with a relatively small investment (~$1500) I hope to have this machine up and running. I'll be posting photos, my victories and my defeats, in the hopes that someone else who is looking to do this can get some useful information. Chris Purolahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10889576164712613561noreply@blogger.com4